Since arriving in Reykjavik Saturday morning, Anne and I had scurried about Iceland, excitedly exploring the island of fire and ice, but on our fourth day, we slowed down. We learned the Vik hotel serves its breakfasts until 10 a.m., so we decided to ease into Tuesday, delaying the half mile trek from our apartment to the hotel until 9 o’clock, and then lingering over another delectable buffet until the energetic staff began clearing tables. Only then did we return to our apartment, pack up, and check out, switching back to adventurous mood as we set out to explore Iceland’s Reynisfjara black sand beach, and much more.
At varying times Iceland’s erupting volcanoes have sent rivers of red hot lava into the icy North Atlantic, causing the ocean’s waters to sizzle as black volcanic rock is formed. Over centuries that rock erodes and wears down to produce shimmering black sand beaches, the most famous being Reynisfjara. This particular beach was featured, I am told, in Game of Thrones, as well as in other movies and shows, a little chunk of earth consisting not only of the black sand beach, but also towering cliffs and rocky lava formations that have formed into huge basalt columns.
Rain again!
It was raining lightly when we approached this iconic site, a prevailing soggy condition we had adapted to with aplomb. Yes, we really did adapt. After all, we had come to Iceland with rain suits, high spirits, and adventurous sentiments. And we refused to be deterred. As we stepped onto that black beach, we stopped to behold what can only be described as awe-inspiring nature. Take a look.
That gray promontory visible through the mist in some frames of the video is the not-too-distant Dyrhólaey, the site we had visited the night before (see here).
We began exploring, feeling the soft, almost mushy sand give under our shoes as we walked toward the cliff on our left. Following that we moved around the corner to inspect the tall rocky columns jutting up from the Atlantic, prudently keeping a proper distance from the churning Atlantic. We had heard, and signs had warned us, that unexpected huge waves and treacherous undertows wipe out travelers every year, permanently.
The basalt columns enticed a number of climbers, Anne among them.
After tramping along the beach, and soaking in the majestic surroundings, we walked inland about 200 yards to a neat cafe/gift shop. I said neat, because the building and the inside were indeed neat as the proverbial pin, with all merchandise displayed tastefully, and all in perfect order. Not only that, but the cafeterias routinely provided tasty offerings. We found a table for our leisurely lunch of ham and cheese croissants, and a Skyr cake with blueberries for dessert. (If you are not familiar with it, Skyr is an Icelandic product fitting somewhere between yogurt and cream cheese.) Our lunch ended our too brief interval at Iceland’s Reynisfjara black beach.
Next on our agenda was the Lava Center in Hvolsvollur, a drive westward of about 50 miles. The center was definitely worthy of a stop, and the hour plus we spent there paid dividends. (See more here). Much in the Center is interactive, and all exhibits worked flawlessly for us.
Anne in a special four-walled exhibit room in the Lava Center. By standing on an activating spot and pointing at a particular area of Iceland, she triggered further information from the display. The exhibits left no doubt that Iceland is indeed one of the most active volcanic areas on earth.
After learning all sorts of interesting tidbits at the Lava Center, we set our sights on our final destination of the day, the Geysir Hotel in the Haukadalur geothermal valley. The hotel lies just across the road from an active geothermal area, and it was completely remodeled recently in a marvelous modern style.
The hotel’s rooms were equally modern, but unfortunately dim. The darkness was only slightly penetrated by a few weak bulbs, this all presumably designed to match the shadowy mood of the elegant hotel. It didn’t work for me. On several occasions I uttered a mild (or maybe not) curse, because I couldn’t find a damn thing in my suitcase. I needed the flashlight on my iPhone to peer into the mysterious depths of my luggage. Anne and I mentioned this annoyance to a woman at the front desk, but she spouted what we had guessed she would, namely that the rooms were meant to be an extension of the mood of the entire hotel.
Despite what I’ve said above, I would recommend this hotel to anyone, and with enthusiasm! Everything within it is clean, neat, and unusually stylish. The restaurant was fine and, as apparently is standard in Iceland, the hotel’s breakfast buffet was excellent, not only plentiful, but also featuring numerous choices for individual tastes, and all absolutely delicious. Just one reminder, if you do plan to book a room here, remember to pack a flashlight, or better yet a lantern.
What to do for dinner?
We checked in at the Geysir Hotel after 6 p.m. and were disappointed that the in-house restaurant was completely booked for that evening. After reading through its extensive menu, we reserved a table for the following night. But where would we eat that night? There weren’t many choices. The woman at the front desk suggested two places, as I recall, one a small restaurant at the Skjol campsite, a drive of maybe 15 minutes away, which we chose. It didn’t sound promising, but we were hungry.
As we arrived at the site, we saw a few camper units, and even a few tents erected on the wet grass. (Yep, it was raining at the time.) The campsite didn’t appear to be thriving. A few yards beyond the campers was a modest building with a lit OPEN sign in one of the window. There were more cars parked nearby than in the photo below, but we weren’t overwhelmed.
If you haven’t read my earlier posts from this Iceland series, see them here: Day 1, Day 2, Day 3
Thanks, Dad. I’m reliving our trip and loving it! I have countless misty, magical photos of that black sand beach. The photos don’t do it justice. Just breathtaking. And I will never forget your awesome enthusiasm for that INCREDIBLE pizza and atmosphere in the middle of nowhere. I appreciate you coming around to recommending the stylish hotel Geysir, with the added note to pack a lantern. Ha. All true.
Iceland was a great adventure, wasn’t it Anne? Thanks again for the memorable birthday present. You’re right about the black sand beach. When I later watched on a large screen the video I posted, it was almost like being there again, lacking of course the 50 degree temperature, the mist, the rain, and the sensation of walking on that mushy sand. And the hotel Geysir? As I said, I’m all in and would go back in a flash (with a suitable lantern). Regarding that amazing pizza at the Skjol campsite: I doubt I’ll ever taste another as good.
I’m really enjoying reading about your trip. What a wonderful and exciting birthday celebration for you both. Your trip takes me back to our trip to Scandinavia in the eighties and the rain we also encounteted then. It’s funny how rain on an ordinary day could be bothersome; however, on a vacation can be magical. I look forward to reading more of your blogs. It is wonderful you are doing so well. Thanks for sharing your journey!
Leslie Stewart Brown
It is so good to hear from you, Leslie. I’m delighted that you’re enjoying the story of our journey, and, as you mentioned, rain on a vacation can be magical. Regarding that Scandinavian trip, I recall lots of episodes from that excursion, but, sad to say, all memories of any rain falling have been washed away.
Awesome Grandpa!!!
You’re right, Megan. It was an awesome day. In fact, each of our days in Iceland was special in its own unique way. What an adventure!
Hello Mr Goetz! I greatly enjoyed your post and look forward to reading more!
Good to hear from you, Elise. I’m glad you’re enjoying my account of exploring Iceland. Anne and I found it to be an amazing place, so much so that I decided to write a separate post describing each day we were there. So, I’ve got four more to go!